C'est Moi: Just another 20 something

Au revoir!

2012-01-17T22:10:00.002+11:00

The time has come to end this little blog of mine. I feel like I need a change. Inspiration. A soft breeze, a thoughtful wander and a happy smile.

I presume I'll start another blog, but for now, au revoir my lovelies.

Fave song- Skinny Love by Birdy

2011-12-26T22:16:00.001+11:00

I will never get sick of this song. The original by Bon Iver is also soo lovely.

Merry Christmas!

2011-12-26T21:29:00.004+11:00

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

Where to start? Christmas has jogged up, sped by, and gratefully limped into Boxing Day. Perhaps a summary of how things went down might help- although, being in holiday mode, my brain's not all here, so you might need to fill in the gaps yourselves.

On Friday, as the last day of work drew to a close, we all went a little hell bent crazy and roared into party mode by bringing in the sauv blanc and bringing up the YouTube on the big screen tv (ordinarily reserved for video conferences). It was officially P.A.R.T.Y time!!!!

We danced rocker style to Bon Jovi, Cold Chisel, watched Mr Jujitsu's weird heavy metal clips, ballet spun to Birdy's Skinny Love and had an incredibly fun disco dance-off. We were classy in an unclassy way if you know what I mean (we got totally tipsy in the privacy of our office, no mess, no embarrassment-- even if a bit nerdy), cheap, and so very memorable. Best final day of work ever.

Then it was Christmas Day and my sister and I cooked and cooked and cooked. We had:

snapper that was baked in a salt crust
brocollini panfried with garlic and anchovies
seafood salad with prawns, rocket, avocado
baked sweet potato
baked regular potato
mango, capsicum, tomato, and rocket salad
berry and apple crumble with vanilla icecream

Most tiring cook off ever. But really really yummy:

And then it was today. We watched The Iron Lady while gorging on popcorn (see below). One of the best movies I've seen in ages. Meryl Streep is amazing- in the words of my sister: "She's old school good".

The laidback crooner...

2011-12-14T21:49:00.006+11:00

Last night, I had dinner with Miss CalmFarm and as always, it was spiritual, enriching and contemplative.

We had Thai in a cute little Thai spot on Pitt Street.

Then we walked through to park en route to Central station, where we came upon a man who looked a little like a hippy, chilled out, blonder version of Julian Assange. He was seated on a bench, with a keyboard mounted on a stand and he was pressing down a bunch of chords while singing in an in-tune, nasal and easy listening version of Kelly Clarkson's "Because of you". He was smiling, nodding affably at us, while the wind ruffled his floppy mop (like Hugh Grant in Notting Hill) and not at all putting in the angst that Because of you requires. It is a break-up song after all.

Think the beginning of If God was one of us by Joan Osborne-- before she launches into the song-- but ten times slower. That's how he was singing.

As compared to:

It was hysterical.

CONGRATULATIONS PONY!

2011-12-14T21:43:00.007+11:00

On Sunday, Pony and Manly got engaged!!!!!!

I'm super excited for them. Together they've conquered distance, life's challenges, dashed dreams (don't worry Manly- you'll get it next year!), and continued to support each other in that steadfast, constant way that solid couples do.

I can't wait until they have exotic Eurasian babies with olive skin, hazel eyes and long long limbs.

Happy wedding wishes Lamington Shipp!

2011-12-14T21:33:00.006+11:00

As I catch up on the hectic Friday & weekend that was, I come to Saturday.

On Saturday, I had lunch with my sister, had a manicure in her office, met her cute and hugely entertaining lawyer buddy Miss DimiPheebs (because she's diminutive), analysed the death out of a couple of email chains in an attempt to help Miss DimiPheebs decipher the double meanings in the many emails exchanged between her and Mr Desirable ("do you think he likes me??"), concluded that it was just too early days yet, before meeting up with Pony to come together for Lamington Shipp's fiance's birthday.

We enjoyed Vietnamese wraps, Vodka Cruisers, a brilliant lunar eclipse and some plain old good conversation. One of the nicest evenings of the month.

[Mr Shipp (furthest left), Lamington Shipp (third form the left) and the rest of us:]

[Amazing lunar eclipse that hit at around 1 am]

[The happy couple at the end of a long, lovely night:]

It smells of Christmas, Grass and Alchomohol!

2011-12-12T21:44:00.010+11:00

It feels like a lifetime ago now (I've just had the chockest weekend known to mankind and I won't be able to fill you in on it today- there's just too much), but on Friday, it was our work Christmas party.

Theme: 1920's

Weather forecast in the week leading up to it: Dubious, swirly and grey at best, torrentially rainy and wintry at worst

Weather on the day: Miraculously phenomenal. We couldn't stop stating: "We were sooo lucky with the weather"- as if we had anything to do with it

Sport of the hour: Lawn bowls

Food of the Friday: Snags and rolls

Final hour: Lowenbrau

It was the loveliest Christmas party of my life. Flouncing around in our outfits, taking the train to Erskineville for an afternoon out on the greens, ignoring curious bystanders and posing like we just didn't care-- Could you ask for anything more from a WORK Christmas party?

[Smart and suspendered:]

[Gloriously attired:]

[Waiting for the train like Miss Daisy:]

[Miss DB, Mr Funky Glasses and I:]

[Walking to the Bowling Greens:]

[Miss DB: the best of the bowlers:]

[Me and Miss Tiny:]

[The absolute definition of four eyes:]

Happy Birthday Pony Express!

2011-12-05T20:49:00.015+11:00

Today is Pony Express's birthday!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY OLD SPORT!

Yesterday was her party. It was meant to be lawn bowls in the sun, but this crazy Winter Summer (tops of 19 degrees today, fellas) meant that it was snags and chair dancing under the awning. Her man, who she calls "Manly" (because he is, by all accounts, manly), organised the whole do-- including the back-up plan.

It was a grand mix of exemplary planning, good food (including the rogue salad that flipped in the car, except it was okay because "most of it landed in the cling wrap!"), suitably lovely friends and those vintage happy snaps embedded in polaroid film; standing as a happy reminder of the special day that was-- Pony's 27th birthday.

Street art...

2011-11-28T22:51:00.006+11:00

Remember last year some time, I took pictures of the alleyway across the road and there were all these babushka dolls?

Look what's there now--

It's a technicoloured zoo!!

Summer is a-coming in, loudly sing cuckoo!

2011-11-28T22:28:00.006+11:00

After a week of torrential rain, wind and squinting through sheets of wet, the sun triumphed on Sunday and pulled out a real stunner. This unbelievable weather, combined with the street buskers, stalls and the smell of Christmas, meant that my sister and I were destined for a supercalifragilisticexpialidocious day.

We started off at Circular Quay, browsing the Rocks Markets critically and pooh-poohing vintage jewellery with:

"Nah man, we could so get that from Lovisa for 20 bucks!"

We feasted on corn on the cob, tucked into pizza, thumbed through books in that bookstore with the beady curtained entrance, felt the unwelcome call of cramping bowels that inevitably follows from having had too much food and standing too still in a bookstore, rushed to my sister's work to seek solace in their beautiful porcelain thrones, traipsed back up George Street in search of the elusive Grecian goddess costume that my sister needed to buy for her work's Christmas party on Friday, found the elusive dress (60% off or something ridiculously grand like that) struggled back to Wynyard station, posed for pictures in the street (once in front of the giant Christmas tree and others just being plain silly), bid each other farewell with an exaggerated continental kiss (like we always do, so posh; so sophisticated- three kisses, not four) and finally-- finally-- got home.

A happy, simple day.

[Look how big the cruise ship is compared to the ferry and the Bridge!:]

[Jumbly jellyfish:]

[At the Rocks Markets- the guy who took the photo thought we were tourists-- until we spoke in our super Aussie accents and splendid strines:]

[Sketchers and their muses:]

[Christmas is a-coming!:]

[My sister- the Asian version of Kate Middleton-- and before you bleat: "She doesn't look like Kate Middleton!", I don't mean she looks identical to Kate Middleton, I mean she resembles her. Use your imagination for Chrissake. The wrap dress and the hair are undeniably very Kate Middleton:]

[Me being silly in the street:]

Sailboats by Brooke Fraser- favourite song of the week

2011-11-26T21:11:00.002+11:00

Miss Louise...

2011-11-26T20:59:00.009+11:00

Today, Miss Louise and I met up for a coffee and a yarn.

It's been 2 years since I saw her last (December 2009)- and as always, the pleasure was all mine.

We've been friends since we were fourteen, and in between her living in France for a couple of years, Switzerland for another couple of years, and now Canberra for the last three months, our catch-ups have been few and far between.

Be that as it may, every time we see each other, it's almost like we're fourteen again. Our conversation starts on a mature note: we touch on work, relationships, the banality of Canberra and other adult topics. But as the day progresses, we regress.

"I like driving over the Bridge, it makes me feel tactical!" she provides, as we search for parking at Chatswood Chase.

"Does it?" I'm incredulous. I can think of nothing worse than the stress of speed and weird merging lanes

"Yeah!"- she parks, expertly

"Omg I'm so hungry"- I decide

"Yeah, omg I want a satay stick for lunch" she announces

"You can't just have one satay stick for lunch, that's not enoughhh!" I say

"But it's yummy! I don't wanna have a proper lunch, I wanna have a satay stick!" she states

and that settles it.

Later, when we're bumbling onto the lift to ride down from the Level 3 car park to the shops, we're still a bit out of sorts:

"We have to go down one", Miss Louise instructs. She pushes the button for Level 2.

"Do we?" I ask not really concentrating- shops like Chatswood Chase confuse the hiney out of me and I'm glad Miss Louise knows where we're going.

(we ride down one floor, but you can hardly feel it because it's just one storey)

"We have to get off now" she prods me.

"Do we??" I ask again- staring back at her blankly

"Yeah, this is level 2!" -- we hurry to get off and bump into each other and the wall.

A lady who's been watching our uncoordinated efforts chuckles drily and deadpans:

"You girls have got it all together"

We shop, discover that we have completely opposite taste in fashion and homewares (she's perplexed by every single item I pick up to show her with my tick of approval: "isn't this sooo cool?" wrinkling her nose in confusion at all of them), and we have a lovely day.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY FOR TOMORROW, MISS LOUISE! XXXX

Happy birthday dad!

2011-11-26T20:48:00.004+11:00

My dad's birthday is on the 24th of NOVEMBER!

I have to write out the date in full because he keeps changing his mind about when his birthday should be.

It used to be in April. Then in December. Then apparently, his big sister said it's actually the 24th of November.

The confusion arises because he was born in the midst of the Korean War and record keeping wasn't exactly a priority. We got muddled up this year and gave him his gifts and gluten free cake on the 25th of November:

"It was yesterday!" he corrected us, before tucking into his cake.

It all just gave way...

2011-11-24T22:53:00.002+11:00

It's mid morning at work- it's cold out- it's quiet in. Nothing special, very status quo. The ushe (that's short for Usual).

Then the ceiling caves in.

The heavy air conditioning tubing and its steel box crashes through landing precisely where Ms Cosmetic Pro would've been sitting if she hadn't vacated her spot in a fit of "these workmen are driving me crazy, I'm going to go for a stretch."

A large piece of roofing slides from the roof and misses Miss Tiny's head and back by inches, as, in a moment of unbelievable timing, she happens to be leaning into her computer at the time.

A steel rod gashes Miss Master Manager on the arm and her skin screams red and angry.

Everyone is stunned but laughs hysterically because it's scary to contemplate what could have been.

There were definitely angels watching over our office today.

Sculptured to sea salt and showers...

2011-11-20T21:11:00.006+11:00

On Sunday, my sister and I scooted bum and bus to Bondi for the final day of Sculptures by the Sea.

I say "bum and bus" because we were literally moving our bums, on some kind of bus, all day long.

I caught the bus from home to the city (trains were snoozing), and then together with my sister from the city to the beach-- and I gotta say, buses rate ten out of ten for entertainment value.

Some highlights:

The Spunky Lady

The spunky lady sitting next to me on the way to the city (who couldn't have been older than fifty), was decked out in a light denim jacket, silvery, spiky cropped pixie hair cut and super pink nails. She had her Ipod Nano plugged into her ears and she drummed her fingers on the seat back in front of her "bahm bahm bahm!- ing and belting out at the top of her lungs: "Come on baby light my firrrrrre!" in all her tone deaf glory.

The packed bus, which was dreary and silent save for a screaming baby, all looked at her, and then looked away: Crazy old lady with the crazy colourful get up, they muttered internally.

But I thought she was fabulous.

Later, she shouted at me over the din of her earphones: "My daughter got this for me from Singapore! It's an Ipod Nano, and I put all my songs on it! I'm goin-ta Sculptures by the Sea! It's the last day, but I forgot my camera, you see!"

(I've put all her speech in running sentences because, even though I was saying "Oh really! That's so great! What songs do you like! I'm going to Sculptures by the Sea too- Princess Mary was there this morning!" she didn't hear any of it because of the ruckus in her earphones-- so all her sentences really all came out as one long bumbling statement of fact.)

When we eventually got off at Wynyard, she bid me a good trip before sticking one of her earphones into my ear: "See how good the sound is!" before stalking off the bus- her skinny tanned legs tucked in her tiny shorts, and rainbow bikini peeking out from her white tank- she waved to me before she jumped off: Bye love! I reckon I have good taste in music for an 80 year old!!

Eighty years old?? I would never have guessed it-she was probably one of the most exuberant and joyful people I've ever met.

The guy with the ring in his nostrils

On the second leg of our bus trips, we jumped on a different bus from Town Hall to Bondi Beach. We stood next to a guy with dark brown curly hair, sultry lips, and a ring that had been slotted into the skin that separates each of your nostrils-- like those rings that bulls and cows have.

Every time we looked at him, we wanted to Moooooooo! because he even had those big, rolling brown eyes that cows have.

The brother and sister

On my final leg home, I sat in front of two little Indian kids. The big sister was about 8 years old. Her little brother, about 5 years old. The big sister was authoritative and teacherish. The little brother was squirming, giggly and attentive. Their conversation went something like this:

Big sister: What colours make purple?

Little brother: Red and blue!

Big sister: What colour makes red and blue?

Little brother: Purple!

Big sister: (trying to trick her brother): What colours maaaaaake purple?

Little brother: (pauses, trying to figure out the trick): Ummmmm. Red and blue!

Big sister: Good.

Big sister: What's the opposite of up?

Little brother: (silent)

Big sister: What's the opposite of up?

Little brother: What does that mean?

Big sister: (softly) Say down

Little brother: Down!

Big sister: Good!

Big sister: What's your uncle's name?

Little brother: Uncle Singh

Big sister: Good!

Big sister: What does "blow up mean?"

Little brother: I don't know

Big sister: It means get fat!

Little brother: (giggles hysterically)

Big sister: What's the opposite of no friends?

Little brother: Yes friends!

Big sister (emphatically): Good!

And so they continued- her approving his sometimes wrong answers because neither was none the wiser.

Some pictures:

[My sister with her sunhat:]

[Zebras:]

[Pensive sea-gazing:]

[Splintering the cliffs of Bondi:]

[Beauty and the Geek: Bendeguz!]

[One of my faves:]

[Magic mirrors:]

[Karate!:]

[One for the fambly album:]

[Swirls:]

[I loved this one too!]

[The red men and my sister have a staring contest:]

[Elegant:]

Coveted things...

2011-11-15T22:13:00.005+11:00

How hard does my new white Swatch watch scream:

It's summer, y'all so let's get into some bikinis and drink some Bacardis, y'all!

My sister got it for me and it's radical. It has a super long strap so that you can wind it around twice, cross it over, and voila, trendy. I love it.

Meanwhile, the Pony Express and I had dumplings for dinner tonight. We had a great old yarn about life, boys, career and that "cute job" we're going to have when we're in our late 40's and a solid career trajectory hopefully won't matter too much anymore. Her dream is to be a history teacher in some rural town. Mine is to just take pictures and write some and read some and enjoy the simple things in life. She got me this awesome Lindt teddy and just looking at it puts a smile on my face. Kinda looks like he's saying:

Don't worry, be happy.

Inspired...

2011-11-14T21:39:00.007+11:00

Things that have inspired me over the last couple of weeks:

[Mr Jujitsu's Melbourne Cup "costume". Constructed on work premises with only cardboard, texta and tape. Ingeniously equine! :]

[Demure Miss CarrieBradshaw- Outfit of the day:]

[King Hussy with Miss CarrieBradshaw's fur stole and his handmade "fascinator" which doubled as a crown-- may his reign be a long one:]

[Colourful racewear:]

[Miss Tiny and that skirt:]

[The Farah and Miss IrishEyepatch tizzy with betting fever:]

[Mr Funky Glasses and Miss DB keeping things classy:]

[Miss IrishEyepatch- winner of Best Shoes (Alannah Hill):]

[Miss LondonLook and Miss CarrieBradshaw in all their sartorial sass:]

[Winning by a nosehair:]

[Friday nights out on the town:]

[Purple Trees- Hi Ms CalmFarm!]

[Magenta flowers swaying and gossiping:]

[Perfect light:]

[Baby huskies- brothers:]

[Mr Hussy's perfectly smooth philly on Vita Weat: you couldn't render a wall better than this:]

[Pop! Yellow! :]

[The ingenious way my dad restored a fuzzy snowy screen to a perfectly clear one. All he had to do was figure out the best angle for the antenna:]

[Gorgeous purple flowers from Ms CalmFarm- so stunning and sweet:]

Happy birthday MUM!

2011-10-30T14:16:00.003+11:00

My mum turned 58 on Friday. We got her a big bunch of roses, a bright red puffer vest (for her golf excursions) and a spiffy hairdryer that rotates as it blow-dries so that you get big volume and bouncy curls.

Weekend whimsy...

2011-10-30T12:26:00.005+11:00

A balloon floats away and a tree goes half pink and half mauve as the sunset helpfully obliges.

When all you want is a goddamn pillow:

Glamour and spikes...

2011-10-30T11:39:00.007+11:00

Miss LondonLook and Miss CarrieBradshaw always come to the office looking pretty awesome.

Depending on her mood, Miss LondonLook goes for an inspired kaleidoscopic ensemble that may or may not include crazy print tights, her newly acquired bronze cuffs and choker (think Wonder Woman), all finished off with a bright magenta lip, skyhigh bun and spikes.

Miss CarrieBradshaw also pulls off the sky high bun, but generally opts for all black, teamed with pared back make-up and her "I didn't even try but it's pretty damn good" mane of two tone hair. Then again she has her days where she goes out and pulls out the vintage Hermes belt, black pumps and pencil skirt. You couldn't top this Friday, though-- the glamour of a long, breezy, colourful floor length robe and those skyhigh boots:

"They're my Alexander McQueens" she purred

"Really?" I screeched

"Naaaahhhhhhh!"

We can only dream.

[Miss CarrieBradshaw in vintage Hermes:]

[Miss LondonLook and her choker:]

[Fabulous on Friday:]

Photos- because pictures say thousands of words...

2011-10-24T22:58:00.013+11:00

I can't be bothered to write! Today is dedicated to pictures and brevity.

Oh, but I do need to tell you one thing. Miss IrishEyepatch's OIRISH accent is so misleading that when we were discussing lunch plans and a possible shopping trip to break up the day, I misheard her "Okay, we'll go to Myer", as "Okay we'll go tomorra!"

Initially, I thought to myself "Maybe she doesn't want to walk that far today. But curious and curiouser, Miss IrishEyepatch never gets sore legs! She runs marathons for Chrissake!" and then when she mosied down to my pod and asked "Are we still going to Myer" (except it still sounded like "Are we still going tomorra?") I was totally confused.

We laughed and laughed because Mr Hussy and Jathon both thought she was saying "tomorra" and not "to Myer".

It was uproariously funny.

Some pictures.

[Lunch at Mrs Rocke's with the family-- or as Mr Hussy says "the fambly" (he's in the depths of The Grapes of Wrath):]

[Mrs Rocke's remarkable garden- Solomon's Seals and other delightful flowers:]

[Happy Beans from Ireland:]

[Man from Mars stayed for the whole week. He wanted to watch tv but I wanted some peace and quiet to read, so on came his headphones and he listened to the tv while eating his dessert:]

[We cooked up a storm- chicken drumsticks, salad and rosemary and potato bread:]

[Pasta- or more like minestrone soup/pasta sauce:]

[Jathon and Mr Hussy rode really far on some Saturday morning, for some bike marathon:]

[Miss IrishEyepatch, the Farah and me in Hyde Park-- tiny little whiff of Chateaux de Versailles right there:]

[Miss IrishEyepatch and the Farah:]

[Miss LondonLook gets some love and roses from her man. The females in the office swooned. The men in the office looked away in despair. The standard for the perfect specimen of a boyfriend just went up that extra notch and the men prickled with mild panic:]

[Miss Tiny and the BuMaster:]

[Level 1 was off limits on Friday- it was getting re-tiled. I still pressed Level 1 though- them fools. A paper sticker does not an off limits area make!:]

Is that a real OWL? I literally did a triple take. It's fake, Man from Mars deadpanned. We found it in the trendiest of trendy corners of Surry Hills:

[Steps and busy patterns:]

[Miss IrishEyepatch and her beau- such a sporty, sweet and suitable couple:]

[Man from Mars and I:]

[Stars of Old Hollywood:]

[Miss IrishEyepatch and her beau:]

[Coogie after we leave Miss IrishEyepatch's pad:]

[Stuff the Bus with GOODIES! (It's the Xmas Appeal)]

[Sunday relaxation while Man from Mars was getting a haircut:]

[A tiny whiff of the Roman Forum right in the middle of Kingsford:]

And that is all.

It was a little mortifying...

2011-10-10T21:56:00.006+11:00

Call me a creature of habit, but my morning routine is always exactly the same:

6 am: Rise and shine- a new day has dawned
6 - 6:15 am: Blend up some juice from oranges, applies, pears and celery. Distribute to family
6:15 - 6:40 am: Drink magic juice and then embark on the arduous task of chowing down the Big Bowl of Cereal (i.e. 2 weet-bix, how many do you do?-- some bran-- and to round it off, some Special K)
6:40- 6:50 am- Bit of porcelain throne business while reading Grazia
6:50-6:55 am- Brush the old teeth and make them smooth, get rid of the old fuzz
6:55 am - 7:10am- Get dressed, make up and listen to the radio- hum along some, because it's the morning, y'know?
7:10- one final porcelain throne check and whizz out the door

Comprehensive morning routine, I hear you say?

Only the most comprehensive, says I.

Generally it works like a charm- except today, in an exemplary display of Mondayitis, I whizzed out the door after my final porcelain throne visit with my outfit slightly askew. Dreaded amongst girls and literally the stuff of nightmares, I tucked my work skirt into my stockings so that my round bum was exposed and ready to make its presence known.

If it weren't for my long Spring coat, the commuters on my train station would have screeched:

My eyes!

Instead, that honour was reserved for Mr Russia who, having gotten to work before me, then had the misfortune of walking behind me to the kitchen:

Y'do know that your skirt is tucked halfway into your stockings

he pointed out unhelpfully.

Are you serious? I patted around at my skirt and there it was-- all that material bunched up like half a tutu-- or a frou frou skirt-- except it was neither elegant nor fashionable.

I yanked my skirt out and giggled a bit. Then I pretended like I didn't care and asked Mr Russia about his weekend-- as if all of that hadn't just happened.

We pretended to have a boring conversation about our respective weekends (yada yada yada, I don't even remember what I or he said, because I was too busy trying not to look mortified) and my frou frou skirt wasn't mentioned again.

It's the $64 million dollar question...

2011-10-04T22:20:00.005+11:00

How do you like your Vegemite?

If you're like me, you love loads of butter oozing onto hot toast with tiny daubs of Vegemite, applied with gentle and even strokes.

If you're like Mr Hussy, you appreciate the Vegemite supreme saltiness by applying it like Nutella on a plain piece of toast. No butter included.

I think Mr Hussy's way is a travesty. He had it for afternoon tea and I took this photo to remind us all of how right Vegemite and Marge are as a couple. Once he tries my way, he'll never go back, I guarantee it.

[Such a happy little Vegemite, as bright as bright can be!:]

I tried my mum's curlers...

2011-10-03T22:28:00.004+11:00

And ended up looking like a super electrocuted version of Diana Ross! This is how I looked after I woke up this morning (and believe me, it took some serious elbow grease to get my hair halfway decent for public viewing):

Also, check out my sister's Spaghetti Marinara on the weekend. YUMMY.

25 September 2011- Sydney

2011-09-30T23:52:00.003+10:00

We woke up this morning at 9 am after a really broken sleep. I remember that at 3 am we both lay in the dark, talking in giant circles, lazily contemplating the post holiday slump. Our conversation went something like this:

Me: The trip feels like it was just an awesome dream

Man from Mars: Yer I know

Me: I don’t wanna go to work on Monday

Man from Mars: Same.

[Repeat, and add "really really really" before "don't wanna go to work on Monday"]

[Repeat again with a super whingy strine.]

[Repeat again.]

And then I apparently fell asleep.

We headed off back to the airport at about 11 am and I caught flight back to Sydney at 12 pm. I was bone tired and my head felt so muffled, but both my sister and mum were yapping at my suitcase to see what souvenirs I got them-- and so, we unpacked my bag and distributed goodies all around.

Afterwards, I fell asleep at 5:30 pm, and woke up at 7:30 pm. Although I wasn't all that hungry, I sort of felt obliged to eat and went and had an apple, orange and a cup of peppermint tea. It wasn't the smartest choice of food and the tea proved to be my downfall, sloshing around in my belly. I kid you not, I had to pee about 10 times throughout the night. I lay awake miserable and desperately wanting to sleep for the next eight hours before finally falling asleep at 3:30 am.

24 September 2011- Melbourne

2011-09-30T23:31:00.003+10:00

6:30 am- Back in Melbourne- Customs takes ages and we get out at 7:45 am. It’s freezing cold (12 degrees).

My first thought when we hit the road to Man from Mars' house: Australia has lots of gum trees, space and the wide open air is so refreshing. The sky also looks heaps higher and ten times more blue. We’re exhausted and I’m damn straight glad to be home. Can’t deny that Australia rocks. But at the same time, what a fabulous adventure it’s been.

At one point, Man from Mars gets up from in front of the television (where we park ourselves for the better part of the day). He announces that he’s going to cut up some oranges, do I want some? For shizz, I confirm, and he shuffles off to get them.

He’s so tired that he mistakes pink grapefruit for orange. As he slumps back, he mumbles all worriedly: I thought it was an orange, but it was a grapefruit. I don’t believe him and think he’s just having another blonde culinary moment, but for once he’s absolutely right- the grapefruit really does look like an orange.

[Such deceptive orange looking peel:]

[And you flip it over and.... it's a grapefruit!]

We eat our grapefruit and oranges, watch some more tv before going to bed.

One final flight to Sydney tomorrow and then it’s really home time.

23 September 2011- On the plane

2011-09-30T23:07:00.006+10:00

Get to the airport with the help of Kenny, the Terrific Taxi Driver again. Three hours later, we're on the plane to

Australia

. Watched Hanna. Slept 15 minutes.

[The novelty of getting a comprehensive meal served on a 40 cm x 30 cm tray:]

[Coming into Melbourne- the very start of a sunrise:]

22 September 2011- Seoul, Korea

2011-09-30T22:30:00.010+10:00

This morning I woke up with a funky belly, which I suspect, had something to do with the 8 hour time difference. Waking up at 9:30 am meant that it was 1:30 am Swiss time— and my body was royally annoyed. It should’ve been asleep, not waking up for breakfast with the Korean sun starting to beat down! Also, I think I was a little bit nervy at the prospect of having to speak proper Korean to aunties and uncles who speak zero English, are staunchly conservative and who I’ve only met twice.

We had a mini breakfast on the hotel patio (stay at the Sunbee Hotel if you’re ever in Korea!) before we navigated our way to the Lotte Beckgajym which is Korea’s biggest and best department store. I asked the hotel reception for a map to get to Lotte Beckgajym (they didn’t understand what I was asking the first time so I had to repeat it in what I thought was a really exaggerated Korean accent but surprise surprise, it worked awesome with them!) before hailing a taxi and winding our way through the hectic traffic to the Beckgajym.

While we were in the taxi, my dad’s eldest brother called me on my mobile and shouted a couple of phrases about where he was in this enormous department store and how I should find him. The only words I caught were “on the first floor” and “behind”. Rightio.

We walked into one of four entrances and I hoped hoped hoped I would just be able to spot him. Wishful thinking. When I tried to call him, I realised that I’d left the piece of paper with his (and my other aunties’) phone numbers in the hotel, so all we could do was wait for him to call me. He did, and when I answered, out came a stream of mumble jumble that made my brain cramp. So, I bounded over to a nice looking lady manning the Gucci store and requested in my Australian accented Korean:

“I’m from Australia and my uncle is meeting me here, but I don’t know how to say “I’m in front of Gucci—could you talk to him?”

She was so nice- she laughed with her smiley eyes and took my phone before clearly and helpfully telling my uncle that we were right there in front of Gucci. Hallellujah. Two minutes later, my uncle’s son found us and led us to my uncle who had come from Gongdor, a country town that’s two hours away from the Beckgajym.

He looked so much older and littler than when I last saw him six years ago and although he’s generally the silent, brooding type, he gave a giant smile when he saw Man from Mars and I and then seated us down at Dunkin Donuts for an iced coffee (I don’t drink coffee, but I didn’t even care). We talked for a while, me dipping into my Korean phrasebook and him asking me to repeat everything I said because a) my korean didn’t make too much sense and b) he’s becoming a little bit hard of hearing, and we had a lovely chat before my dad’s two adorable big sisters arrived.

There they were, the Tour de Force- the two sisters who are the backbone of my dad’s family-- all curly topped hair, big smiles, and coming towards us with excited shouts of: “You’re here! Oh you’re here! Aww who could believe you’re here!” It was so great.

We talked some, we ate lunch, we shopped a bit and despite the language issues (“Learn KOREAN!!!! shouted my aunties on at least five occasions), we clicked. After all, family and lineage goes so much deeper than speaking the same language. I was so sad to say goodbye and so glad to have seen them; even if it was only for a handful of hours.

Afterwards, we walked back to the Sunbee and had a little rest before we met up with my mum’s brother and his wife and daughter. My mum’s brother is a top researcher at one of Korea’s best make-up companies, and when he fronted up with SEVEN KILOS of make up (Koreans are generous and will give you everything they have—so it won’t be one apple, it’ll be fifty. Likewise, he couldn’t stop at one lipstick and one bottle of face cream, he could only make do with SEVEN KILOS of various stuff), Man from Mars’ and my reactions couldn’t have been more different:

Man from Mars (concerned to the point of grim silence): We’re already over our weight limit

Me (so happy): So much make up—Wheeeeeeeeee!

We dropped the goodies off at our hotel before enjoying a delicious banquet at an authentic Korean restaurant—low tables and floor sitting and all. It was such a quick catch- up; just a two hour dinner, but it was so much fun and again, I was so so glad that I’d gotten to meet up with them.

That night, Man from Mars spent five hours until 2:30 am, packing and repacking our bags. He somehow manipulated our 47kg worth of luggage (our limit was 40kg) so that we were just within the weight limit. What a clever cookie.

Tomorrow, we leave for the airport at 2 pm and we will fly to Australia at 6:30 pm. So sad, the end’s come so quickly and I don't wanna go to work on Monday!!

20-21 September 2011- Lucerne/Seoul

2011-09-28T21:59:00.005+10:00

Not much to report over these two days. We spent our last day in Lucerne visiting the Lion of Lucerne, mooching around the foreshore, before catching the train to Zurich Flughafen.

[Lion of Lucerne:]

[Pretty as a picture:]

[Who knew swans had such extendable necks. Go go gadget go!!:]

[Lake Lucerne:]

Ten hours later, after sitting in front of four adorable and remarkably well behaved Korean boys under the age of ten, we arrived in Seoul. In our brains, it was 9:30 am. Korean time, it was 3:30 pm. We got to our hotel with the help of our fabulous English speaking taxi driver, Kenny. Then I talked in horrible, stilted Korean to my aunties over the phone and maybe (I think) we managed to establish that we may meet up tomorrow. I’m not entirely sure because they hung up in a hurry and wanted to talk to my dad (who’s Korean is ten thousand percent more comprehensible than mine).

We had Korean barbecue for dinner before passing out at the respectable time of 11pm.

19 September 2011- Lucerne

2011-09-27T21:17:00.002+10:00

Today was our last full day in Lucerne and as Man from Mars says “we’ve done a full round trip!” (he meant “we’ve come full circle” but he tends to customise his clichés). The coming full circle he was referring to was the fact that it’s very close to the end of our trip and the weather has become dreadfully cold and rainy—just like it was near the start of our trip in London. Today temps reached 12 degrees, with the wind and rain adding that extra chill factor that made us both whimper. Today I had to pile on a jumper, jacket and bought another cardie to layer on under my jacket because I couldn’t handle the cold. Tomorrow, after we leave Europe, we’ll be in Korea where the temps are sitting in the mid 30’s. My body will be so very confused.

Anyway, today was a pretty relaxed day. We started off with a cruise around Lake Lucerne. Unfortunately, because of the fog and low hanging clouds, we didn’t get to see the snow capped mountains that everyone comes to Lucerne to see. However, the green mountain face and cute colourful houses made for a delightful boat ride nonetheless. We braved the front deck (and the wind, rain and chill) for the first half hour to take some pictures (below) before retreating indoors and telling the old Italian couple seated next to us “Brrrrrr!!!” (a universally understood sound effect) to which they rubbed their hands together (a universally understood action) and we laughed together.

[Our ship:]

[The green-ness of it all:]

[The mountain-ness of it all:]

[The freezing coldness of it all:]

Afterwards, we had a typically Deutsch lunch of Currywurst, bread and baked potatoes, before setting off for some typically Swiss shopping- think chocolate and knives. Man from Mars and I each made some critical Victorinox purchases (do you know how many different types of pocket knives they have in the Lucerne branch for Victorinox?) before indulging in the cocoa aromas at Bachmann.

As the rain was pouring down for the much of the day, we opted for an early dinner of vegetable pasta and pizza before returning to our room to repack our bags. Man from Mars is such an organiser, and our bags have been categorised accordingly:

- Fragiles

- Stuff we need in Korea

- Everything else

It’s worked out quite well and he reckons we’ll *just* make the weight limit. Our flight is at 9:30 pm tomorrow and we land in Korea at 3:30 pm. It’s gonna be a looooonnnng day.

18 September 2011- Zurich/Lucerne

2011-09-24T22:37:00.005+10:00

This morning we were all so tired from our 2 am effort. We woke up, said a half hearted “good morning” to each other before spending the next half hour yawning, staring off into space and declaring our love for sleep. Miss Poised Procurer’s boyfriend came over and with the rain striding down, we waited at the bus stop to get catch our ride for brunch. It turns out we could have easily walked- it was literally 200 metres away from the bus stop. But with rain, comes wind and with wind comes extreme displays of shelter seeking. Thus, the bus reigned supreme and we sheepishly hopped off within 30 seconds.

Breakfast was phenomenal. Given that it was 12:15 pm before we had finally gotten our acts together to get dressed, go all 200m to the café, snag a table in this tiny eatery and sort out our orders, the massive portions were a godsend. We ate, took some photos and then went home. In a twist of great timing, our bus was already to roll when we came out from the café and so, we again rode all 200m back home on the bus.

[Best breakfast evs:]

Man from Mars and I packed our bags while Miss Poised Procurer packed her bags for a work trip and Miss Cheese&Bread flopped on the sofa and kept us entertained with her random musings and potential man friend thoughts.

[Saying bye to Miss Poised Procurer at Zurich HP:]

[Decadent fine Swiss chocolates from Miss Poised Procurer- our kind host. So amazing!]

When our luggage had been repacked, we took the 45 minute train ride to Lucerne from Zurich Haupt Bahnhof. We then dumped our bags before walking out for an evening of exploring. The sun was setting as we searched for a (mildly affordable) place to have dinner and the lake and its surroundings were stunning. Lucerne is so beautiful- against the backdrop of fog and mountains, there are big town squares, painted buildings and quiet, unassuming people who are lovely.

[Out and about in Lucerne- elegant swans in formation- Man from Mars' awesome photo:]

[Lake Lucerne:]

[Alfresco painted buildings in the middle of Lucerne:]

[Lucerne by dusk:]

[The Old Bridge- part of it was destroyed by fire and it was then rebuilt:]

[View from the Old Bridge:]

[Man from Mars on the Old Bridge:]

Another difference we’ve experienced from Italy to Switzerland is the weather. The temperature has bottomed out at 13 degrees (a full 19 degrees lower than the sweltering highs we felt in Rome) and it was even colder tonight when we motored home after a hearty Italian pasta.

We are in our last stop in Europe before we head to Korea in the next two days – what an epic trip it’s been so far. I’m craving some Vegemite and hanging out for some home cooked food, but on the other hand, I’m half dreading the return to work, stress and all that stuff. This holiday has been so enriching, at times difficult, hot, sweaty, cultural, Italian, French, Swiss German, Korean and English. Everything. I’m going to savour our last full day in Europe tomorrow- hopefully, we’ll take a cruise around Lake Lucerne. Tschuss until then!

17 September 2011- Zurich

2011-09-24T22:20:00.004+10:00

Is it just me or does Zurich bear a tiny resemblance to Melbourne? It has a main shopping street that looks like Bourke Street, there are buses that like trams that run like clockwork, a lake (kind of like the Yarra, work with me here) and changeable weather.

Man from Mars and I shopped and purchased quite a lot—a fact that left both Miss Poised Procurer and Miss Cheese&Bread perplexed given that Switzerland is really expensive, there isn’t as much choice as Italy and London, and everyone really only “browses” in Zurich—leaving the purchasing to the other European cities. Man from Mars scored at H&M buying two jumpers—one green (his nemesis-- he thinks green means spew colour, but I’m bringing around and pointing out the difference between bottle green, fluoro green and puke green) and one red. Meanwhile, I was motivated to buy some German fiction in a hopeful effort to remember and maybe regain the German I knew in high school.

[They park really close to the kerb in Zurich:]

[Zurich:]

We returned home in the late afternoon to find Miss Poised Procurer and Miss Cheese&Bread completely wiped after partaking in a 10km run (a formal one, kind of like the City to Surf). They finished it in just over an hour, and soldiered on to take Man from Man from Mars and me out to meet their friends and enjoy some Italian. The night was going swimmingly- we had eaten our pastas, focaccias, pizzas and had some lovely conversations with their seriously good-looking and genuinely nice group of friends. However, as we were reaching for our wallets to split the bill, we discovered that someone had pinched the handbag of one of the group. It had been sitting on the floor—and with her seated at the end of the long table talking to everyone else, nobody had noticed anyone reach under the table to take her giant tote that was filled with everything important- her purse, phone, house keys. We were stunned. This is Switzerland we’re talking about- the country of diplomacy, safety, rules (eg. Sunday is rest day and you’re not allowed to do anything remotely taxing like laundry) and precision. Usually, the thieves are looking for cash, so they’ll often take the money and dump the bag in the alleyway. We looked around the backstreets, but we didn’t find her bag anywhere, so we walked together to find a police station. Strangely, despite the police station being fully manned, they refused to take down a report of her incident, saying that we’d “missed” the relevant window to make the report. She would have to return at 7 am the next morning.

We took the train home, confused by the police swarming the streets (this was highly unusual for Switzerland, so we were told), and then parched and delirious from fatigue, we drank tea and flopped down in front of the tv to watch Schlag den Raab. It’s a highly addictive and hugely exciting German game show where a contestant (the challenger) duals with another guy (the show’s resident smart and strong guy who dresses in potato sack coloured clothing, sports a crew cut, knows his atlas from his key dates and hisses “Yassss!” (read “Yesssss” with a German accent) every time he wins). The contestant sweats each round out, in pursuit of a huge amount of cash (eg 1.5M euros in this episode).

The rounds alternate between challenges which test their intellect (history and trivia), reaction time (bouncing two balls and seeing who can catch them both with one hand), athleticism (driving around a haystacked race track), and cool under pressure (rolling a tyre from 20 metres away so that it sneaks precisely through the gap between two blocks). It is taped live, so the contestants can often run off the set for a toilet break because German television only has commercials every half an hour or so. Also, you never know how long it’s going to take--for this particular night, if we were exhausted when we got home at midnight, we were completely smashed when the show finally wound up (in hugely anticlimactic fashion) at 2 am. The resident strong/smart guy had been leading for the entire first half of the show, but the contestant came back to win in typical underdog style. After some confusion as to whether he had done enough to win, the audience clapped uncertainly before the host confirmed him as the victor. It was like the audience had exhausted their enthusiasm in what turned out to be a 6 hour game show, and so, the contestant leapt, his girlfriend cheered, happy in the knowledge of her financial security and we rolled off to bed without so much more as a second glance.

[Schlag den Raab and getting hyperactive:]

[Rolling the ball between a tiny gap:]

[End of the night: Man from Mars trying to fix the toilet seat that kept going lopsided:]

16 September 2011- Venice/Zurich

2011-09-24T21:49:00.003+10:00

Tired as and can’t be bothered to recount. Essentially, our day went like this.

1. Wake up.

2. Get on a boat for 45 minutes to cross the Canal to get to the station.

3. Get on a train for 3 hours. Sit opposite another wealthy American couple. Avoid any conversation with them until the final five minutes where we both act suitably friendly and exchange travel itineraries and thoughts on Italy.

4. Get off train in Milan. Hang around for next train for 45 minutes. Get on next train to Zurich.

5. Sit on train for next 4 hours. Sit opposite young Chicago couple. Talk quite a lot to them. Girl is serious and hardly cracks a giggle. Guy is like a happy puppy, pumped for his first overseas trip. He keeps trying to take photos from the train window but times them wrong and they’re always obstructed by a tree, a house or a powerline. Train is 40 minutes late into Zurich. Greeted by Miss Poised Procurer and enjoy a hearty Greek banquet in the heart of Switzerland.

6. Thunder strikes and we run home in the rain. Drenched. The weather is 10 degrees colder in Switzerland than it is in Italy. A welcome change.

7. And, now is now.

[Beautiful scenery on the way to Zurich:]

[Drenched after dinner and Man from Mars stinks like a muggy creek:]

15 September 2011- Venice

2011-09-24T21:33:00.004+10:00

Today we wandered around Venice, dodging the tourists and popping in and out of the hundreds of glass shops that are open in the narrow streets. Man from Mars bought a cool clock made from Venetian glass and I got some earrings. The highlight of Venice is the fact that streets are cut off by canal; that everywhere you look, the city is floating on a giant body of water. In addition, there’s the fact that you can literally “get lost” in Venice and not have to worry about actually getting too lost, since you’re on an island. The atmosphere in Venice is a mixture of Disneyland (almost everything is glitzy and geared towards the tourist experience) and old Italy (think grand three story palaces lining the canal). There isn’t too much to do there, which in a way is great- because it makes you wander, become confused with the many many alleyways, deadends and similar looking shops, and enjoy the city for what it is.

On the other hand, the downside of Venice is the ridiculously expensive food. It costs almost double what we paid in Florence, Siena and even Rome- I guess it’s to be expected because it is, above all, a tourist city. But still, so expensive!

We didn’t do too much else today- it’s been a good lazy two days.

[We walked through a door and came into a courtyard. It exits out onto the canal:]

[More gondolas:]

[Venice, the floating city:]

[Our last dinner in Italy:]

[St Mark's Square by night:]

Did you enjoy Man from Mars’ powerpoint slide yesterday? It’s his specialty at work—he’s renowned for his awesome powerpoint slides and I requested (read: forced) him to do yesterday’s blog entry because I was tired. He chose his own mode of presentation and did what he does best. A brief, easy to read recount of the day’s events.

[Man from Mars, working hard yesterday:]

Tomorrow we’re off to Zurich!!

14 September 2011- Venice

2011-09-24T21:13:00.004+10:00

A summary of today's events and accompanying pictures. Click on powerpoint slide for more info.

Source: Man from Mars' Consulting Services Pty Ltd

[Landed in Venice:]

[The Canals:]

[The Rialto:]

[Gondolas:]

[The Basilica:]

[In our awesome hotel. Compact and everything you could ever need:]

[On the rooftop terrace:]

[The narrow narrow streets of Venice:]

[Dusk:]

[St Mark's Square:]

[Man from Mars in St Mark's Square:]

13 September 2011- Rome

2011-09-16T08:06:00.007+10:00

Today was yet another hot and steamy day. I woke to the sounds of two people rehearsing opera, accompanied by some fantastic piano playing- the chords and their voices echoing up through the narrow alley way. What an awesome way to start the morning.

[View from our hotel:]

Given that we were visiting Vatican City and in particular, the Sistine Chapel and St Peter's Basilica, dress code required that we both cover our shoulders and wear below the knee pants (note to those who go in the future, remember this fact, otherwise you’ll be refused entry by the security guards). The only pants I have in my suitcase wardrobe (besides shorts and stinking hot jeans) were these black ones that kind of look like sport track pants. They were meant to be my “travel pants” and I wear them for long train rides and plane rides. Anyway, I looked pretty nerdy, and the black brought all the heat in, but they did the job and were appropriately modestJ We took the train to Ottaviano station before stepping off into a new country, the Vatican City (smallest country in the world!).

First stop was a walk around the wall of the Vatican City before entering the Vatican Museum.

[Nuns going into the Vatican City:]

We walked through long, crowded halls of tourists and animal sculptures, a courtyard with other beautiful statues and followed the many signs that directed us to our final (and long anticipated) destination, the Sistine Chapel. When you get there, all you do is look up and up and up. It’s an amazing, amazing artistic feat and Michelangelo is said to have painted it all on the request of the Pope (he apparently refused many times, saying he was a sculptor not a painter, but the Pope insisted). In addition, he is said to have painted it all alfresco (where the plaster is mixed with the paint) and all while looking up and standing on scaffolding. He didn’t lie down and paint it from a prostrate position as popular myth claims. The ceiling conveys key events from the Bible. From when God created the world (“Let there be Light”), then his creation of Man (where the two index fingers of God and Adam are famously moving to touch), Man succumbing to temptation, and finally the Last Judgment. We sat on the side, staring up at the ceiling, listening to our Rick Steves audioguide and taking all of its brilliance in. The room, which is huuuuge, was packed with tourists and it was such a highlight to be there, and seeing it. Following its restoration, where large amounts of dirt and soot were removed, the colours are brilliant and I was tempted to take a photo. However, part of the deal with the company who undertook the restoration was, that no photos can be taken. In any case, a photo wouldn’t do it justice. You really must go if you’re ever in Rome.

[Inside the Vatican City:]

[A special view of Rome:]

[Amazing sculptures:]

[Belvedere's torso- One of Michelangelo's many inspirations:]

[The exit to the Vatican Museum:]

We then moved onto St Peter’s Basilica after a quick lunch in a cafeteria near the Sistine Chapel. Man from Mars had a salami roll, while I had what looked like pizza base (pizza dough plus tomato base). It was bland but quick, and fuel for the body, and we then walked a few hundred metres to take in the giant piazza sits in front of the Basilica. The sun was so strong that we couldn’t bring ourselves to stand in the queue that stretched into the hundreds. So we sat in the shade of a statue and waited for the queue to dwindle a little. Thankfully, entry is free and the only reason for the wait was the dress code check and the security check. While the dress code checkers weren’t too strict at the Sistine Chapel, they were out in force at the Basilica and I saw lots of girls in denim shorts and lots of men in short walking shorts, refused entry. Bummer.

[St Peter's Basilica:]

[The many pilgrims who come to see the Pope speak sit in the thousands of chairs that are arranged in front of the Basilica:]

Inside, the Cathedral is massive. Apparently, it’s the length of two football fields and it’s gold, marble, painting, sculptures everywhere. There are lots of domes, paintings on ceilings and a story behind every door and statue. In addition, there is a glass box which holds the body of Pope John XXIII. It’s perfectly preserved, if a little eerie.

[The roof of the Basilica:]

[The dove behind the altar:]

The final highlight is Michelangelo’s Pieta from 1499 which depicts Mary holding a limp Jesus in her arms. Her expression is so sad, and the way she is cradling him is tender and maternal. Here is a photo, taken of it behind its bulletproof case (added after a loony tried to smash it a number of years back):

We ended our visit at the Vatican City post office and sent some postcards to mark our visit to perhaps the biggest postoffice for the world’s smallest nation.

Afterwards, we took the metro to the Spanish Steps and all was fine- I was taking photos, Man from Mars was chatting like normal, and then suddenly he was afflicted with cramping bowels and we had to motor back to our hotel. Turns out his salami sarnie he had for lunch wasn’t too fresh and he had the runs for the next hour. Such are the perils of heat, poor refrigeration and mass produced food.

When he was well enough (about 9 pm), we decided to go grocery shopping because he wasn’t up for a complex Italian three course dinner. All the grocery shops around us were closed except for the one at Termini train station, so we sweated it out and walked with our backpack, to the station to stock up. We enjoyed a nice hotel room feast of honey sandwiches with fruit salad and probiotic drink and to be honest, after all this pasta, pizza and tomato, it was really really good!

Tomorrow, we leave Rome for Venice! I hope it'll be cooler in Venice- temps have topped out at 32 degrees everyday we’ve been here!

12 September 2011- Rome

2011-09-16T07:08:00.009+10:00

Today was a full and incredibly stinking hot day of walking and delving into the history of Rome. We started off at the Metro station to buy a Roma pass (the best way to jump the queues at the Colosseum and the Roman Forum) before making our way to our first stop for the day- the Colosseum.

The Colosseum was originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre and was built in 80AD. It is regarded as one of the greatest feats of engineering, and as you walk both inside and around what remains of the building, you can certainly appreciate why.

For example, when you first walk in, there are arches along the side, framing the wall that leads you into the amphitheatre. Each of these arches were built in an ingenious way where travertine blocks were stacked up from both sides of the arch and then as you got to the “peak” of the arch, the final piece was slotted in- eliminating the need for mortar because the inward pushing force of the blocks meant that none was necessary. Incredible, right?

[The arches:]

As we walked around, both the exterior, interior and into the “arena”, it was difficult to imagine how people (without the benefit of cranes and machinery) managed to build this mammoth structure. When you look down from where the spectators used to sit, you also get an interesting insight into how it all worked. Underneath the “floor” of the arena, there was a maze of doorways, elevators and passages where animals (lions, tigers, other scary things) could be ferried up and along, before they were released into the arena (up above) through a trap door. In this underground cavity, the animal keepers would feed and tend to the animals- it was like “backstage” to a theatre production, only, down below.

The gladiator would then have to fight the beast and if he was the victor then he received superstardom status. If he didn’t, he would be eaten by the beast and the Roman public would go wild (they were a pretty blood loving lot back then).

[The floor was usually made of wood, but underneath the floor was a hive of activity:]

It was sooo interesting and probably my favourite tourist attraction of the trip. One other thing to mention is the number of Aussie’s travelling around Italy right now. When we were inside the Colosseum, we heard one fifty something Aussie bloke say to another:

Imagine playing the AFL on that! (i.e. in the Amphitheatre)

And his friend said:

Yeah mate, it’d be like a bloody sauna!

It was pretty funny and quintessential Aussie.

[Man from Mars and I at the Collosseum:]

Afterwards, we had a supermarket bought lunch of pasta salad and then tiramisu to end. In Rome, you can’t just buy your lunch from the shops and sit down on a step and eat it—Rick Steves says it’s illegal and can result in you being fined. We’ve done it everywhere and you’d presume you’re entitled to do it anywhere—but not in Rome, you have to eat at a café or restaurant, or else somewhere hidden away if you’re going to attempt a picnic/park lunch. Anyway, we took our chances and ate in front of the Colosseum near a Panini vendor and his truck. We figured we sort of looked like we’d bought it off him (even though we weren’t eating Panini!).

Full and reenergised we then spent the better part of the afternoon walking through the Roman Forum. This is an excavated site that sits below street level. It’s where Julius Caesar used to frequent in his hey day and there are reminders of ancient Rome everywhere. Lone standing pillars, collapsed walls and incredible monuments and arches that date back to the early years after Christ was born. While we were walking through this amazing area, we listened to our Rick Steves audioguide (get the app on your Iphone!) and again, you look at the relics and you can imagine how it all was when Rome was buzzing, at the top of its game and the superpower of the world. It’s sad to think that in the centuries following its peak, Rome collapsed and the area of luxe, wealth and beautiful buildings was literally buried by silt and rock. Even as you walk near the Roman Forum, excavators are still hard at work uncovering new artefacts from centuries passed.

[The Roman Forum. Can you see the Colosseum in the distance?]

[All that remains of Ancient Rome- sky high pillars showing only a hint of the grandeur and opulence of the palaces that stood on Palatine Hill:]

At the end of our tour of the Forum, we walked to Pantheon and witnessed some more Roman architectural ingenuity, marveling at the sheer size and dome of the Pantheon. Did you know, that as the builders drew closer and closer to the oculus (which is the high point of the dome and through which the sky is visible), the material used to build the dome was deliberately reduced in density? This ensured that the rotunda didn’t cave in, and didn’t need any further structural support. How smart is that? We also learnt that the material used for the front pillars came all the way from Egypt and had to be shipped and then dragged all the way to its current site. They were then lifted upright with the use of just ropes, pulleys and sheer manpower (i.e. hundreds of slaves).

[The Pantheon:]

[The huge pillars at the Pantheon's facade:]

[The incredible domed roof of the Pantheon:]

We left the Pantheon so impressed before having another fine Italian dinner at Target. Tomorrow, we do the Vatican City!

11 September 2011- Siena/Rome

2011-09-12T06:59:00.010+10:00

Today we took the train from Siena to Rome. We had a three hour wait at the train station, and so we ate lunch on the steps. I fooled around, trying to create the highest ponytail known to mankind, while Man from Mars diligently read up on Rome for the next leg of our trip.

[Highest ponytail ever:]

[Man from Mars is so diligent:]

It was a three hour trip with one change in between, and when we arrived in Rome, it was chaos, heat, humidity and noise all over again. We definitely miss the quiet strolling pace of Siena, but Rome is amazing for all its history and incredible monuments. As we came in at about 5:30 pm, we went for an early dinner at a really excellent restaurant called Target. It was recommended by our hotel because it’s close by and has great food and it definitely didn’t disappoint. Man from Mars had truffle and pear ravioli (sooo good) and I had a tomato, oregano and mozzarella pasta (simple Italian at its best).

Then we completed part of Rick Steves’ night tour and visited the Trevi Fountain. If you throw a penny over shoulder, it assures you a trip back to Rome in the future and so Man from Mars and I threw our pennies in.

[The Trevi Fountain:]

[Man from Mars throws his pennies in:]

Tomorrow, it’s Rome Exploring Day!

10 September 2011- Siena

2011-09-11T07:24:00.011+10:00

Today we woke up at the lazy hour of 9 am and slowly took on Siena. Siena is a medieval town that is quiet, dreamy and such a refreshing change from the hectic pace of Florence. It doesn’t have the big names and attractions of Florence, but it has good food, happy people and enables you to come face to face with medieval relics of centuries gone by.

My Rick Steves guide tells me that Siena used to be Florence’s archrival, but then the bubonic plague wiped out a third of the population and Florence emerged as the superpower city. There are very few tourists, the streets are narrow and winding, and old nonnas group together, stopping to talk about the days’ gossip. You see tunnels branching off from alleyways, religious pictures placed at the head of the tunnels from centuries past and symbols that have been carved and painted onto the walls, which reflect Siena’s 17 different neighbourhoods.

[The Duomo:]

[Medieval tunnels:]

[Siena in Autumn:]

[Ancient framed sculptures hang above doorways:]

[Relics of times gone by:]

The highlight of the city is by far Il Campo, which is Siena’s main square. It’s like a massive amphitheatre- sloping downwards towards the City Hall and the City Tower. At the top of Il Campo is the Fountain of Joy where pigeons take sips of water to escape from the heat and the sculptures delight all the people passing by.

[The City Tower:]

[Il Campo:]

Siena is such a wonderful town- my favourite place so far. If you ever go to Italy and want to experience “the real Italy”, I really hope you go to Siena. It’s picturesque, enriching, romantic, quiet and truly truly good for the soul.

9 September 2011- Florence/Siena

2011-09-11T07:10:00.008+10:00

Today we woke up at the incredibly early hour of 6:30 am because we made reservations for the Uffizi Gallery for 8:15 am. (Note: Booking a spot for major museums like the Uffizi and Accademia is a smart thing to do if you ever come to Florence, because it means that you get priority entry and don’t waste two hours queuing up- just ask your hotel to do it for you, or do it yourself).

We were pretty tired from yesterday’s day trip, but as we walking through Florence, with the city empty of tourists and the sun starting its rise high into the sky, we were able to appreciate the town and its incredible monuments in the quiet of the early morning.

[Early morning in Florence:]

We walked down to the famous and enormous Uffizi Gallery (built in the 16 Century and containing the greatest collection of Italian paintings in the world) and wandered slowly from room to room - admiring works such as Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Titian’s Venus of Urbino.The art works are incredible, many dating back to the 15^th Century and the ceiling of the gallery is also enchanting. Needless to say, given the number of works, the size of the gallery, and the heat and lack of air conditioning in some of the rooms, doing a thorough job of each room is a challenge and three hours later, our feet were pretty numb.

[In the Uffizi:]

Afterwards, we went into the Palazzio Vecchio courtyard for a baguette. We sat on the steps and had our lunch before going in search for the best gelato—ultimately going back to place where we got our baguettes. Man from Mars requested my flavours of choice- Bacio and almond—but he accidentally asked for the MEGA GELATO (pointing to the 30 cm waffle cone instead of the 12 cm one) and the lady served us up with the most mammoth gelato you’ve ever seen. It weighed about a kilo and was literally the size of my head. Man from Mars got a cup and we split it, but by the end of it we both struggled to keep our heads up and our eyes open. Talk about a Gelato overdose!

[As big as my head!]

The extra sugar held us in good stead as we then took on the Accademia. In contrast to the Uffizi, all the artworks are very close together and the highlight had to be Michelangelo’s David. In Italy, they’re quite particular about taking pictures of artwork and the giant David (who conquered Goliath) was no exception. Still, I couldn’t resist and snuck this picture in, because in all seriousness, it is such an amazing sculpture.

After the Accademia, Man from Mars bought a cool leather briefcase for 100 Euros before we took the train to Siena.

[Twilight in Siena:]

We had a lovely dinner in a little lane way before coming back to our room at the Hotel Italia (great hotel- so homey). What a long day! Tomorrow, we explore Siena J

8 September 2011- Lucca/Pisa

2011-09-11T06:35:00.018+10:00

Today we took a bus tour to Lucca and then Pisa. Lucca is about an hour from Florence. It is a quiet, charming little town that has some beautiful ancient structures which make you fully grasp the history and age of Italy. For example, in the early days, there used to be a tower on every street corner. Its purpose was to announce to the world, that the families living in the adjoining house were wealthy. Here’s one of the key towers that remains standing in Lucca today- the Guinigi Tower.

In addition, there was a church on almost every street corner- reflecting the deep emphasis that was placed on religion at this time. Here’s the Church of San Michele which is in the centre of town (and was the meeting point for our tour):

One of the highlights of Lucca is the Ramparts- an impenetrable brick wall that encircles the entire town. In the early days (16^th Century), the wall was built to protect the town from cannon attacks from neighbouring cities. It was so high, and surrounded by such a vast no-man land of grass (now a pretty picnic spot for tourists) that no one bothered to attack the town.

We also saw the site of the old Roman Amphitheatre. As my Rick Steve’s guide tells me, the amphitheatre used to seat about 10,000 people, but it was gradually “cannibalised” for its stones. Now, all that remains are the stones of the amphitheatre floor and some arches. The circumference of the amphitheatre is still reflected by a circular set of shops and cafes.

[Stylish old man on his bicycle:]

After a quick lunch and gelato (where Man from Mars dropped his, and a doggie ate it up) we hopped back on the bus and saw what all tourists flock to see- the amazing Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Field of Miracles.

[Man from Mars loses his gelato:]

From memory, the slant of the Tower is 4 degrees and was caused by the soft, moist soil which started to sink almost as soon as construction started. The builder changed at various points of construction and you can see that on the third floor, they attempted to straighten the tower by adjusting the pillar lengths. Somewhere near the top, they tried again to fix the slant by angling the last few storeys backwards. We took the usual “I’m supporting the Leaning Tower of Pisa” photos before taking a tour of the Duomo (Cathedral).

Now, having seen so many cathedrals during our trip, I’ll be honest, you tend to become a little desensitised to the grandeur after a while. However, the Duomo was stunning and in particular, I loved the pulpit that was sculpted by Giovanni Pisano. The pulpit used to sit at the front on the alter, and it reflects Jesus’ journey from birth to his crucifixion (kind of like the one in the Notre Dame). One quirky fact which our tour guide gave us was that, rather than signing his work in the usual artist way, the sculptor included himself in the pulpit (a little man sandwiched between two seminal religious figures). Here he is:

The ceiling of the Duomo was also amazing- made from gold it was commissioned by the powerful Medici family after the original wooden ceiling was destroyed by fire.

After a super informative session, we were led back to our tour bus and returned back to Florence at 5:30 pm before tacking the leather goods markets.

Tomorrow we’re going to spend our last half day here at the Academia and the Uffizi Gallery. Then it’s off to Siena!

7 September 2011- Florence

2011-09-11T05:58:00.011+10:00

Today we woke up ready to take on Florence. First off we needed to replenish our money supply and so we went in search of an ATM before starting our day.

There was one down the road, around the corner- and the funny thing about Florentine ATMs is that they’re in their own little room secured by a door with a doorbell. To use it, you ring the doorbell, pull the door open, step in and do your business while the door shuts securely behind you. If anyone else wants to use it, they ring the doorbell (I guess to let you know they’re waiting) but the door is locked until you come out when you’ve concluded your withdrawal. All a bit confusing, but it’s a good way of preventing people from peering over your shoulder and stealing your pin number, hey?

After the dollar supplies had been topped up and safely stowed away in our hotel, our walking tour began. There’s so much to see in Florence, but it’s all pretty close together and it’s different to Paris, in that it can all be done on foot. There’s no need to metro-ride; it’s extremely condensed. In contrast to the smaller cities we visited like La Spezia and Nice, it feels much more fast paced and hectic. The traffic is pushy, tourists are in their thousands, and pedestrians definitely play second fiddle to cars. If you’re going to cross the street at a pedestrian crossing, don’t assume the cars or vespers will stop, because they won’t. Just look for whether they’re slowing down, make pointed eye contact and act like you know where you’re going. Otherwise, they’ll just steamroll you. Alternatively, trot after a local Florentine, and you’ll be happy as Larry.

Today was reserved for sightseeing, rather than museum entering (that’s for Thursday), and here’s what we saw:

the Medici Chapels
San Lorenzo Market
the Duomo Cathedral (spectacular- the cathedral was built with a big hole in the roof, because the technology of the time wasn’t advanced enough to build the dome. However, the builders weren’t concerned- they knew that there would be someone who could handle the challenge and the dome followed later- and sure enough, it was put in by Filippo Brunelleschi)

Campanile (Giotto’s Tower)
Baptistery (with its beautiful bronze doors)
The Orsanmichele Church
Piazza della Repubblica (here, there is a lone column which marks where Rome’s two main roads met. The piazza is punctuated by a grand arch which is meant to reflect the celebration of Italy’s unification)

Uffizi Gallery

Palazzio Vecchio

Ponte Vecchio (which is Florence’s most famous bridge. It was used by the Medici family to commute between Uffizi and the Pitti Palace (their home) and is flooded by tourists and jewellery sellers)

Piazzale Michaelangelo (to get there, you have to go up a super steep hill and many steps, but once you get to the top and see this spectacular view of Florence, it’s all worth it)

Eight hours after our ATM adventure, our walking tour was complete and we slipped back to our hotel at 8:30 pm for a big rest. You have to admit, holidays are so much fun and so enriching- but they are so exhausting sometimes!!

Tomorrow, we’re taking a tour of Pisa and Lucca. Thankfully it’s partly a bus tour, so we’ll have a chance to sit back and relax. Ciao until then J

[Man from Mars, the ultimate tourist:]

6 September 2011- La Spezia/Florence

2011-09-10T07:23:00.011+10:00

Today was our last day in La Spezia and the plan was to check out of our hotel at 10:30 am, catch the train to Pisa, potter around Piza before catching a mid afternoon train to Firenze (or Florence). Instead, our schedule was thrown out the window by the unreliable Italian rail system.

Italians often stage scheduled strikes about contentious issues which brings train systems to a halt. Eg today’s was about the senior’s pension I think-- I only know this because the rally marched outside the exit of our hotel. As a result, we were forced to wheel our luggage back into the town centre and slowly pass the eight hours away. It wasn’t half bad actually. We enjoyed gelato and a coffee at a RSL-esque pub, complete with mean looking men at the bar and watched the world go by on the quiet streets of La Spezia. The weather was gorgeous and there was a tiny breeze, so all in all it was nice.

[Rally runs outside our hotel:]

[Strikes are on- luggage keepers and trains are cancelled:]

We made our way back to the train station at about 5 pm for the 5:40 pm train to Florence. The train rolled in ten minutes before its departure time and we were excited. We sat on the train waiting for it to depart, but then it never did. We watched the train driver walk off and we and some locals pondered if we’d ever get to Florence. An hour and ten minutes later, our driver came back (perhaps he went on another break?) and the train started up.

[Waiting and waiting for the train to leave:]

[Man from Mars is loopy (rude!) after a day of waiting for trains:]

We chugged to Florence in record time (just over two hours) and took in the stunning Italian countryside. We got in at about 8:40 pm before heading out for some dinner down the road.

[Stunning country scenery when the train finally leaves for Firenze:]

Tomorrow, we explore Florence!!

5 September 2011- Cinque Terre

2011-09-10T06:34:00.011+10:00

Today we woke up and peered anxiously up at the sky. Was it rainy? Would the boats run to the Cinque Terre? Would we be able to make it there today?

We motored down to the Promenade and asked the lady at the boat shack whether there were services running to the Cinque Terre today. It definitely wasn’t stormy (not like yesterday) and the water looked relatively still. But alas “No, the boats aren’t running today. It’s not safe because the water is too rough” she reported. And so, we had to turn back to seek an alternative way to reach the Cinque Terre.

We eventually opted for the train pass. It’s a full day pass (costs about 10 Euros) which takes you to each of the stops along the Cinque Terre (or the five “lands”). The Cinque Terre is the Italian version of the French Riveria and it is a relaxed and beautiful part of Italian coast. Each of the town are only about half an hour apart in total (i.e. about 2-5 minutes between each one) and despite our 12 pm start, we were able to visit four of the five “lands”.

First stop was Riomaggiore, and in our rush to start the walking trail, we sort of forgot to go into the city centre. Instead, we walked via Dell’ Amore (which is the most romantic trek you’ll ever do) and saw proclamations of love scrawled across the white walls along the way. I added my own (see below) before we indulged in the seascape and the postcard perfect backdrop of those famous colourful houses that appear stacked on the edge of the clifftops.

[Dell 'Amore:]

Once we arrived in Manarola, we had a super Cinque Terran lunch of

a lovely lunch of vegetable pasta (did you know that pasta is considered as an entrée in Italy!);
anchovy, olive, mushroom and cheese pizza (anchovy is a specialty of the Cinque Terre); and
a piece of tiramisu, and lemon sorbet for dessert.

Full and satisfied, we then went to Corniglia (population 240) where we climbed up 382 steps and caught an awesome view of Manarola. The effort of trudging up 382 steps plus the cheese heavy meal (I’m pretty lactose intolerant) inadvertently brought on a bit of wind (not the weather kind) and I accidentally let rip a pretty big “whoever smelt it dealt it!” as we rounded a corner at the 150 step point. It was really loud and I pretended it wasn’t me. But it took one giggle from Man from Mars to bring on a massive laughing fit and as I laughed and laughed with my hair flopping into my eyes, I tripped on a step. I would’ve fallen if it weren’t for him and his long limbs; as I flailed around I grabbed at air before clawing his arm- it broke my fall, but left behind a pretty deep cut. Sorry Man from Mars!

[The scratch after my smelt it dealt it incident:]

We kept climbing the steps, laughing hysterically the whole time and I kept asking Man from Mars: Do you reckon people knew it was me? Was it really really loud? to which he’d reply “yeah” and “yeah”. Dammit.

[Laughing after my smelt it dealt it incident:]

[The view from Manarola train station- best view ever:]

We wandered through Corniglia and as we walked through the narrow lanes, we could look down other perpendicular lanes and spot doorways that lead into the vineyards lining the mountain face. It was like that commercial that you see for South Australia before the movie starts at the cinema, where Martin Dingle-Wall and his lady friend are running around to the strains of La Mer and looping through doorways that lead to vineyards- except this wasn’t a figment of an advertiser’s imagination—it was real.

To end our Corniglian excursion, we enjoyed a gelato from Gelateria (which gets a special mention in my Rick Steve’s guide to Italy) before making our way back down the many many stairs to catch the train to Vernazza (which is known as the “Jewel of the Cinque Terre”).

We ended up missing the next train to Vernazza by about thirty seconds and because there was a fifty minute wait until the next train, and we didn’t much feel like going back up the 382 steps into Corniglia, we decided to take the train back to Manarola to pass the time. Once there, we relaxed and took it easy. We sat on the steps of the post office (which is only open for 4 hours a day) and watched a dog panting super hard from the heat and the incline up into town. I took a photo of his long pink tongue.

When we got to Vernazza, we got to see why it’s known as the Jewel of the Cinque Terre. It is home to the world’s only natural harbour and as the sun started to set, the colourful houses and stunning scenery was a completely fitting way to end a fantastic day. We watched daring teens jumping off the stone wall, into the choppy sea before strolling back to the station to return to La Spezia. Something to note about the trains that you take to the Cinque Terre, is that often the train stops in the depths of a dark tunnel. Don’t worry- it doesn’t mean that you’ve missed your stop, it just means that you have to disembark from the train in a dark dark tunnel and walk up a bit yourself to get to the town.

[Vernazza:]

Anyway, we got back into La Spezia at about 7:45 pm, catching a stunning sunset on the train ride back and enjoyed another pizza and another pasta at our usual haunt (for the last three nights anyway) at Pepe Nero Ristorante Pizzeria.

It was a totally unforgettable day- a pleasure for all the senses.

4 September 2011- La Spezia

2011-09-09T06:46:00.004+10:00

Today we woke up at 9 am and saw a wall of rain and a sky full of grey. Not optimum if you’re looking to go village exploring along the Cinque Terre!

Given that it’s a Sunday, everything- and I mean practically everything is closed. The streets are deserted and save for a handful of cafes, the town square is quiet. Consequently, we settled for a wander through the Promenade (which is where all the boats disembark from to take tourists to the Cinque Terre) and the storm clouds and fog made for some pretty cool pictures.

[Everything is shut on a Sunday:]

[The Promenade:]

We then went to Zara (the only shop that was open) but as it’s in Australia now, the novelty’s worn off and I didn’t find anything particularly interesting to buy. I know it’s only part way through our trip, but my plan of only bringing four tshirts, a pair of shorts, a pair of jeans and a pair of travel pants, with the intention of buying up big while I’m here, hasn’t exactly been working to plan—I can buy the same sort of stuff back in Austalia, so am I going to weigh myself down with more of the same clothes? Everything is so heavy as it is, so I’m trying to keep it simple.

Needless to say, the four t -shirts are being rotated rapidly and I caved in when I saw a rack of colourful tops going to 7 Euros- bargain! Afterwards, we were both super hungry and as the clock ticked over to 2pm, we spotted a little restaurant with about four people in the front dining area. The waiter was a lovely Italian guy who eagerly practised his English. We started with a fresh salad—but unbeknownst to us the kitchen closes at 2:30 pm. As a result, we were offered a select list (of two choices) for the mains and rather than prolonging their lunch service, we decided to have some museli bars and go back to our room for a siesta.

[Fooling around in the street:]

[Lunch time and Man from Mars chews like a moooo cow:]

[Siesta time and we watch some gondola racing on tv:]

[Man from Mars goes crazy with his Iphone games:]

The sun came out while we were having lunch, but by the time our siesta was finished, the rain was pouring down again. By this time it was 6 pm, and we wandered the deserted streets in the torrential rain and hurricane winds, looking for something big and hearty to enjoy. Given our daytime efforts, we should have known better- was it naïve of us to truly believe that the night would bring the city alive? Anyway, it didn’t, and after 5 blocks of walking, only two gelato shops and two restaurants were spotted. We came upon the gelato before the restaurants and so, after slurping down two giant scoops of gelato, we took our seats in an angry-looking man’s restaurant- full of sugar and not all that hungry.

[Man from Mars is such a kid- messy gelato eating!]

Man from Mars had ravioli while I chose a Margherita pizza. Have you ever had the experience where the Aussie version of an Italian dish isn’t the same as an Italian version of an Italian dish? Well, in all my Margherita pizzas, I’ve never had one that was solely made of cheese (i.e. no basil and no tomato base)—so imagine how far my eyes popped when we were faced with a giant plate of melted cheese. Heavy as. We struggled through half of it before sliding across the cobble stones back to our hotel. Drenched and still pretty hungry, we ended up going back to the same pizza place we went to yesterday and wolfed down another pizza in our room. So good.

In the end, the whole day ended up being a bit all over the shop- a bit of a funny hotchpotch day where nothing went to plan and a large part of it was spent flapping about and changing our minds- but I guess in hindsight it was for the best. Man from Mars is still recovering from his (my) cold and it was slow going for reasons outside our control, which all in all, gave us both a chance to take it easy.

Hopefully, the weather will fine up tomorrow and we’ll be able to go village exploring!

3 September 2011- Nice/La Spezia

2011-09-09T06:37:00.004+10:00

Today we spent seven hours across three different trains from on the way from Nice to Ventimiglia (our first steps into Italy!) to Genovo and finally La Spezia. We swapped bonjour for ciao! and merci for gracie! and came upon an Aussie couple (newly married and on their honeymoon) and a Canadian couple (long time married, and on their 25^th anniversary celebratory trip) during our journey.

[On the train:]

Man from Mars has caught my cold and is dosed up on paracetamol, but like a champion he takes our big bags up the many many steps that populate European train stations (note to self if you want to do Europe—take as LITTLE as you can! I only packed 10 kilos, and it’s still killing me!). We finally arrived in La Spezia at 7:15 pm, all hungry and sweaty and searching for dinner. As it’s a Saturday night here, the restaurants were all booked out. So we got some pizza takeaway and ate it in our state of the art hotel room (it’s 4 star, all the rest of ours have been 2 star! I’m pretty sure it was the price of a 2 star—it even has a bidet and free wifi!).

[You know you're in Italy when everyone is casually riding around on Vespas:]

[Dinner- fresh pizza- so fresh the topping slid off on the walk back to the hotel:]

[The bidet!]

It’s incredible that after only a bunch of hours on the train, we’re in a different country, with a different language and culture— arrivederci until tomorrow J

2 September 2011- Nice/Eze/Monaco/Monte Carlo...

2011-09-09T06:07:00.006+10:00

This morning we woke up late again (Nice was the city for taking it easy) before taking a half day tour to Monaco, Eze and Monte Carlo. We were the only two people in a Tarago and our tour guide was a mildly surly French fellow who’d previously worked in Alice Springs for seven months. Taking this four hour tour gave us a taste of what it would’ve been like if we’d been on a bus tour of Europe. Getting in the car, drive, 15 minutes free time, drive to the next destination. Rush.

I’m glad we planned our own trip. Although coordinating things on our own has had its own challenges, having the freedom to construct our own daily itinerary has its definite advantages. Freedom, time and flexibility.

[Alligator baguette!]

First stop was the Fragonard perfume factory. Its main factory is in Grasse and the perfumes are fresh and unique. I purchased one for Dad and we overdosed on scents and coffee beans.

Just as quickly we were back in the Tarago, winding up along the French Riveria. The sky was a brilliant, soft blue and we peered out the window at the stunning coastal scenery- houses stacked up the mountain in a seemingly hotchpotch fashion.

We got dropped off at Eze, stepping carefully up the narrow, cobblestoned streets and appreciating the tiny shops that have been slotted into along the ancient paths.

[Eze:]

Twenty minutes later, we sped up to Monaco (which is a separate country to France even though it’s nestled between two French cities, and is two square kilometres. It is the second smallest country, with the Vatican pipping it to the post) and took pictures of the Prince of Monaco’s palace and the Cathedral (where Grace Kelly and every other member of royalty has been buried).

[The Cathedral:]

[People do actually drive around in expensive old cars in Monaco- they don't call it a tax haven for nothing!]

[The Prince's palace:]

[Monaco and all its extravagant yachts:]

The tour ended at Monte Carlo, where we took pictures of the Casino before speeding super fast back down to Nice.

[The Sky Mirror in Monte Carlo:]

[This is actually a Library- on the way back to Nice from Monte Carlo:]

What a super superficial tour of Monaco, Eze and Monte Carlo! I kind of liked it though- short and sweet.

1 September 2011- Nice

2011-09-03T08:17:00.006+10:00

Today we had a quiet day in Nice, waking up late and wandering down to the Promenade. We “relaxed” on the pebbly beach (I say relaxed in inverted commas because it's a bit hard to relax when some of those pebbles are digging up your bum), marvelled at the turquoise water and took a trip to the post office to send off some post cards. The day ended with a French dinner (Man from Mars: obsessed with Beef Tartare) served by a particularly obnoxious waiter. Man from Mars’ theory is that we were too smiley at the start, so he probably took us to be pushovers, and as a result, the service probably wasn’t as attentive as it could have been. If you don’t know French custom, the rule apparently is that you’re meant to act aloof and unimpressed, and this compels wait staff to serve you with courtesy and priority.

On that note, here are my top four tips for travelling in France so far:

When in Paris (or an equally “there’s so much to do!” city), don’t overdo it- if you think you’re going to see everything in five days, think again. You won’t and you can’t. Or if you do, you’re going to get really really tired and your legs will ache and you’ll get rundown and sick like I did. Chill man, it’s a holiday. There will always be next time.
Always greet people in French- bonjour! and attempt French when you communicate with French people. Even if you say it wrong, they appreciate it. Even if they answer back in English (which makes you feel like your efforts aren’t being appreciated), they appreciate it. It’s culturally appropriate.
Act like a massive food critic when you’re ordering dinner at a restaurant. Treat them mean- keep them keen.
Say merci as often as you like, even if they’re just saying something inconsequential that doesn’t warrant thanks. At least you’re trying!

[Pebbly beach:]

[Nice in the Summer:]

[Through the Flower markets:]

[Sunny skies:]

[Man from Mars:]

[Beach goers look pretty relaxed:]

[The French Riveria in the distance:]

[Gold sculpture man starts moving!]

[Dinner- In France, they always sit with their outdoor seats facing the street. It's to take advantage of the sun, and even though in this picture, not all the tables are facing the street, you get the picture. It's pretty hilarious. Sometimes you feel like you've got an audience as you walk down the street because everyone is facing you!]

[Man from Mars and his new obsession:]

31 August 2011- Grenoble/Nice

2011-09-03T08:08:00.002+10:00

Today marked the end of our stay in Grenoble. I woke up a little later (still struck down by the lurgy) and Miss Boulangerie’s mother helped me a lot by telling me which French medicines work best and translating instructions so that we could buy them later on.

Before we sat down for a traditional French lunch (zucchini oven bake topped with cheese- delicious! and baked apple for dessert- so gooooood) , Miss Boulangerie took us on one final drive up along the mountains and rolling hills and we indulged in the sun and the stunning greenery. Man from Mars and I were both feeling pretty sad. In the space of three days we had grown so attached to Miss Boulangerie’s family, her giant dog (Lily/Alilly- with the francais accent, I never quite got her name, all I know is that she was the gentlest, biggest dog I’ve ever met) and the natural beauty of her city. Who knows when we’ll see Miss Boulangerie and her family again, but it suffices to say that it was an unforgettable three days. Thank you for your hospitality and kindness Miss Boulangerie and Mr and Mrs Boulangerie-- come to Australia soon!!! We miss you a lot already xxx

[The backdrop is literally Miss Boulangerie's backyard- so lucky!!]

[More rolling Alps and greenery- superb:]

We then took the train from Grenoble to Valencia, and then from Valencia to Marseilles before one final leg from Marseilles to our next destination, Nice. We arrived in Nice at 11pm, before hitting the sack for a new day in a new city.

30 August 2011- Grenoble

2011-09-03T07:43:00.006+10:00

Today, Miss Boulangerie played perfect hostess and drove us to Annesy, which is a lakeside town where her father grew up. It is about 100 km from Grenoble, and the lake is nestled amongst mountains, quaint buildings and cobble stone streets. It’s officially known as the cleanest lake in the world and the ridiculously good looking people of Grenoble spend their holidays lounging back in their paddle boats, swimming in the lake, and enjoying the sun.

In Europe, the sun is bright and you feel obliged to follow the “Slip, Slop Slap” rule that was drilled into you at school. Accordingly, Man from Mars and I slathered on the sunscreen, padding it onto our ears, arms, neck, nose and legs. Not so for Miss Boulangerie who laughed at our comprehensive efforts and explained that the European sun “isn’t as strong as the Australian sun”. In hindsight, I think she was actually right. A general scan of the people on the streets shows a caramel tan that doesn’t verge on sunburn (yes, I know, tan is the first sign of sunburn, but you know what I mean- it’s not as immediate as it would be in Australia). And, even after being in the direct sun for 2 hours, we didn’t feel the usual sensation of dehydration that you feel after 45 minutes on Manly Beach.

Miss Boulangerie and I lay on the front part of the paddle boat, sunning ourselves while Man from Mars leapt randomly into the lake, taking half his towel with him. He kept lifting himself out of the water using the two front sections of the boat like parallel bars. I think he thought he was Thor.

Afterwards, we enjoyed fabulous gelato before driving back to Miss Boulangerie’s house.

[Annesy- Man from Mars and Miss Boulangerie:]

[Charming narrow streets:]

[Colourful houses- only in Europe:]

[Miss Boulangerie- busting out the paisley print because she's not in Paris anymore!]

[Pump those legs!]

[Sunning ourselves:]

[While Man from Mars swims and fools around:]

[After a great day:]

Dinner was a real treat with Miss Boulangerie’s mother cooking up a traditional French Fondue- combining three different types of cheese. Generally, this dish is eaten in winter after a long day of skiing in the French Alps, but Miss Boulangerie’s mother made us the exception to the general rule, and we dipped and ate and dipped and ate. It was delicious. The rule is that if you have that much cheese, you need to have wine/alcohol with your meal. If you don’t, the cheese solidifies in your stomach and you feel like you’re lugging a cannon around in your gut. Another rule of French mealtime is that every lunch and dinner consists of a main and a dessert (and usually wine/alcohol). In honour of this, we finished off dinner with a phenomenal mango icecream that had been made by Miss Boulangerie’s mother only an hour before. Such a treat and soo delightful.

It was seriously such a great day.

[Miss Boulangerie's mum cooking up a storm:]

[Lily/Alily the cutest, biggest dog in the world:]

[Fondue time!]

29 August 2011- Paris/Grenoble

2011-09-03T07:17:00.005+10:00

Today was our last (half) day in Paris. We caught the train to Grenoble and were greeted by the vivacious Miss Boulangerie all decked out in her “Paris” outfit. To explain, Miss Boulangerie is originally from Grenoble, but has lived in Paris for the past year working hard in a marketing firm. She quit her job and is due to travel to Argentina in three weeks’ time- but in the meantime, she is back home. In Paris, people pretty much wear a “uniform” that consists of black, chic, and more chic black or white/navy and white striped top teamed with skinny leg jeans folded up twice plus white loafers. There’s a lot of cement, the weather ranges from steaming hot to rainy and grey, and the streets are narrow and crowded with cars and people. In Grenoble, it’s colourful, casual and perhaps not so coordinated. There are green rolling hills, the constant presence of the French Alps and blue skies. People are friendlier and the town square is much smaller.

Whereas, in Paris, we saw Miss Boulangerie decked out in the black two piece, Grenoble saw her go a little crazy in a paisley jumpsuit. As she says, “I couldn’t wear this in Paris- people would think I was crazy!” There’s a definite difference-- and in some way, the clothes people wear are pretty reflective of each city’s general atmosphere and approach.

Sartorial observations aside, after Miss Boulangerie picked us up, we drove to the top of a mountain and took some crazy photos. From memory, the building at the top of this hill was a former prison- Bastille (it’s at the top of a massive mountain for a reason- no easy way out for the unfortunate prisoners, who, ironically, were blessed with a picturesque view). We took a gondola over the city before joining Miss Boulangerie’s family and friends for an unforgettable night of eating, Chartreuse (a super strong alcohol that is distilled from a flower that is collected from mountain tops by monks in the French Alps) and singing.

Miss Boulangerie’s parents are the epitome of the glamorous French couple. Her mother is a musician with a silken voice, movie star looks, stylish bob and brilliant smile. Her father is a tall, athletic man with silvery hair, big strong arms and a serious face with a twinkle in his eyes. He set up a car wash business twenty-five years ago (Le Tunel), and they both work together to make it the success it is today. Meanwhile, her brother is a magician studying engineering who, at the tender age of twenty has already set up his own business- taking his tricks around to parties and functions.

The entire family is so welcoming and generous (with excellent English/French/German to match) and as we eat and talk on the back patio, accompanied by the French Alps, we understand why Miss Boulangerie was so miserable in Paris. It’s a warm and comforting change from the sometimes grumpy rush of the people of Paris and we look forward to the next two days here.

[Grenoble- blue skies and French Alps:]

[We could almost touch the clouds!]

[In the town square- Miss Boulangerie and her "Paris" outfit:]

[Le Tunel- the best car wash in Grenoble:]

[Miss Boulangerie and her magician brother-- and all that fromage:]

[Chartreuse:]

28 August 2011- Paris

2011-09-03T06:52:00.008+10:00

The last three days have generally started at 9 am and ended at about 1 am, with miles and miles of walking, running and metro catching in between. Today we had a comparatively quiet day, taking a guided tour of the Opera House and wandering around Montmartre (which is near where our hotel is in Pigalle, the red light district-- think the Moulin Rouge). We had pastries and baguettes in the park, before wandering the markets which are filled with artists offering their work and portrait sketching services. Besides the sexual connotations Montmartre and the Moulin Rouge conjure up, by day, it’s actually a quaint part of Paris- charming and hidden away, as you walk all the way to the top of the hill to see the Sacre Coeur.

That night, we slept early- all those late nights and packed days caught up with me and at some point I caught a cold. It put a bit of a downer on our last night in Paris- but such are the trappings of travelling and holidays- you pound the pavement hard, you rush and push- and inevitably get sick. Still, it was a fantastic day, and we readied ourselves for our next stop- Miss Boulangerie and her hometown, Grenoble.

[The Opera House- where the Phantom of the Opera haunts!]

[The roof of the theatre:]

[The Phantom's Box:]

[Man from Mars as a member of the audience:]

[On the balcony of the Opera House. When it was built, it was the era of Narcissism and people stood on the steps of the Opera House more for appearances and to flaunt their wealth and status, rather than to simply enjoy the music and performances that were on offer:]

[Man from Mars- master photographer and the reflection of the city square in the window behind him:]

[Our hotel room and our awesome clothes line- Victor Masse Hotel- highly recommended:]

[Montmartre and the wall of "I love you" in many many languages:]

[Sacre Couer:]

["Turn it this way!" says I:]

[Better!:]

27 August 2011- Paris

2011-09-03T06:15:00.007+10:00

Today we did what we were meant to do yesterday and daytripped to the Chateaux de Versailles (which is where King Henry XIV lived with Queen Marie Antoinette).

Versailles is about a 45 minute train ride from Paris. It’s considered “suburbia” and you don’t take the metro. Instead, you take an RER which is similar to the trains in Sydney. A little slower and you could say a little bit more rickety- made for those longer trips out of town.

The palace is phenomenal. Beautiful. Grand. Ostentatious. Ornate. Gold. All you think when you walk through the palace is-“I’m a Queen, wearing a big bouffant skirt and glistening crown, swishing through my palace” or, more realistically “you could get lost in here”. It is that big. The ceilings are so high- as high as a two storey house. It is so expensive and gives you an idea of how royalty lived in that era. The Hall of Mirrors is breathtaking. Meanwhile, marble is everywhere and the walls and ceilings are decorated with gold sculptures and paintings. Each room furnished with beautiful furniture (ps the beds were really small and accordingly the people must have been really short at that time!). The floor in the main ballrooms/foyer areas are tiled in black and white check (like a chess board) and out the back is a garden that goes for many many kilometres.

The weather was incredibly cooperative. Sunny when we entered and took the token entrance photos, rainy while we were inside, and sunny once more when we were out in the garden. Kudos to you, weather- we appreciated it very much.

[Started off sunny in Versailles:]

[The Hall of Mirrors:]

[Huge artworks adorn the ceilings:]

[Marie Antoinette's room:]

[An idea of how big the grounds are. That yellow speck is me!]

[The beautiful gardens- and sunny again:]

Afterwards, we trekked to the Musee d’Orsay. But we arrived at 5:30 pm, which is when the groundsmen empty the gallery for its closing time of 6 pm. Sadly, we weren’t able to go back in the last few days in Paris, and have rainchecked it for another trip to Paris in the future.

We then met with Miss Ebae at Gallery Lafyette and purchased some coveted Longchamp bags (what else do you buy when in France?). The ceiling of this department store is also pretty noteworthy- and it’s not dissimilar to the QVB.

To end another long day, we met up with Miss LaughingLina and Miss Ann Charlotte. Miss EBae and I haven’t seen them since 2007, where we were all on exchange together in Ottawa- it was a blast from the past, and we first had a lovely dinner at Odeon with Miss LaughingLina, before also enjoying a decadent chocolate gateau with Miss Ann Charlotte.

[Miss Ebae, Miss LaughingLina and I:]

[Moulin Rouge and Montmartre:]

[Miss Ann Charlotte, Miss LaughingLina, Miss Ebae and I:]

26 August 2011- Paris

2011-09-03T05:31:00.006+10:00

Today, we woke up planning to go to Chateaux de Versailles. But the weather was dreary, the rain was going sideways and we weren’t much in the mood for daytripping. Instead, we stayed in Paris, unimpressed by the cold and the rain, and sort of ended up doing the same thing- a day trip of Paris, looping our way to the Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe and down the Champs Elysee to the Louvre.

The Notre Dame is an incredible, colossal cathedral- originally built in the 12 Century, you look up and the ceiling and can’t believe how they managed to construct it. The entrance is an intricate montage of faces, religious figures and gargoyles. The ceiling consists of multiple arches; it’s higher than you imagine and these pictures really don’t capture its size. In order to see the building in full, you need to stand back about 40 metres. And, once inside, you’re witness to the prettiest stained glass. When we visited, there was a mass taking place, and when the priest and the congregation sang, their voices echoed through the cathedral. Despite all the (hundreds of) tourists, it was a surreal experience. There are sculptures that depict Jesus’ life journey inside. From memory they were made in the 14^th Century and have been restored (repainted) a number of times. Again, you wouldn’t find this stuff in Australia, and it actually boggles my mind, because who knew to preserve it way back in the 15^th Century, so that we can view and talk about it today??

[The Notre Dame:]

[14th century sculptures depicting Jesus's life journey:]

[The super high ceilings:]

[Beautiful stained glass:]

[The front entrance:]

After Notre Dame, we battled the rain, and risked life and limb to take a photo on the median strip of a hectic Paris highway in front of the Arc de Triomphe. Again, it’s humungous- a lot bigger than you expect. As a result, according to Man from Mars, the median strip (which is about 20 metres from the Arc de Triomphe) is “the best place” to take a photo of it. So we do. So tourist. We climbed up heaps of steps, made it to the top and took the token “I made it to the top!” photo.

[Arc de Triomphe:]

[The "awesome" photo on the median strip:]

[The Arc de Triomphe up close:]

[View from the top of the Arc de Triomphe:]

In the theme of visiting Paris’ mandatory monuments, we then trotted down Champs Elysee, where I entered make-up heaven at Sephora. There, I got the reddest lipstain ever. I went a bit crazy and got four of the same (without trying it on first; I just dabbed it on the back of my hand. For future reference people, this is not a good way to determine whether a lip gloss will suit), and then when we got outside, I tried it on and realised it was a tad too vermillion red. Always supportive of the “you can go and change it right after you buy it” motto, Man from Mars reassured me that we could go straight back in and exchange the other ones. Nooo, it’s okay, I insisted. It was too embarrassing to exchange it straight away! (For the record, we went to another Sephora the next day and exchanged them).

We then wolfed down a crepe before marching to the Louvre. As Miss Tiny helpfully advised, when you go to the Louvre, you go in there with a plan and you stick to it. You go to the Mona Lisa, and then you get the hell out of the crowd. Unless you’re an arts fiend, you keep it short, sweet and snappy- otherwise, you’ll be in a confused world of hectic staircases. We did just that and, in contrast to the Arc de Triomphe and Notre Dame which were a lot bigger than I imagined, the Mona Lisa was much much smaller than I expected. It was flanked by a massive crowd and all I could think was “it’s the size of an A4 piece of paper!” Still, it’s one of those things you go to Paris for, right?

[The Louvre and my super red lip tint:]

[The Mona Lisa and The Crowd:]

[The Mona Lisa, protected by three layers of glass:]

Next stop, and marking the end of a colossal day of walking, was the Eiffel Tower by night. We waited in line for 2 hours for the lift to the top, and having been there and done that, is it wrong for me to say that you don’t need to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower to get the best view of Paris from above? You could go to the top of the Arc de Triomphe at night, and capture a sky line which includes the Eiffel Tower (which in my opinion makes the Parisian skyline). Or, you could also go up Montpanasse (officially known as Paris’s ugliest skyscraper) and see it all.

What a tiring and long day. We must have stood/walked for 13 hours!

25 August 2011- Paris

2011-08-26T08:18:00.010+10:00

Today we woke up intending to visit Notre Dame, climb up the Eiffel Tower and go shopping until our wallets couldn’t handle it any more. Instead, as we exited St Michel station, we came upon a “free walking tour” led by a New Yorkan named Amanda. She’s a law graduate turned tour guide and she was super impressive, especially given that it was only her second day on the job.

We walked past Notre Dame, Pont Neuf (it smells strongly of pee as you walk under it, because it’s a popular picnic spot, and there are no loos to be seen for miles and miles), along the Seine (so romantic), through the Louvre (don’t sign any papers that are thrust into your face by people standing at the Louvre entrance—they’re rorting you for money! Meanwhile, have you seen a more beautiful, awe inspiring building??), through Catherine’s gardens, up Concordia, and past the Grand Palace. We were heaped with so much history- it made us appreciate what Paris has been through, from Napoleon, to the Henrys (royalty) to World War I and II and the understanding you gain as to why Parisians are so proud of their country.

The distance we covered was phenomenal and by the end of it, our feet were whimpering. Still, we forged on- catching up with Miss Ebae and joining Miss Boulangerie for a bit of shopping in the Latin and Jewish quarters.

I know it's expected, but I'm loving this holiday. Every day is such an adventure-- excitement, newness, language barriers, but a happy sense of satisfaction because I'm not sitting at my desk day in, day out-- I'm seeing different things, drinking up a different culture (albeit probably very superficially given how little time we have), and living life how it's meant to be lived.

Travel is such a gift and I'm so glad for this trip!!

[Free walking tour!]

[This building housed the Nazis but France ousted them-bullet holes evidence the battle:]

[The Seine:]

[Horse statues are everywhere around Paris. Front and back leg up means the person in the saddle was murdered. Two front legs up means that the person in the saddle died in battle. All feet on the ground means that the person in the saddle died an ordinary death:]

[The bridge that showcases locks for the romantic. You secure a lock to the bridge, throw the key away and it's meant show your undying love for your significant other:]

[The Louvre courtyard:]

[These orange stickers are important. It means that if there's a fire, paintings aren't unnecessarily damaged because they tell firemen that this window is safe to break and won't put any artworks at risk:]

[The three corners of Lourve don't match up because additions were made to the existing foundation as time went by:]

[The famous pyramid- it was meant to be invisible, but the structure wasn't strong enough when it was made solely from glass. Consequently, they had to add an inner frame:]

[In Paris, it's all about symmetry. Keeping these lolly pop trees round takes a full day of maintenance and a lot of precision:]

[The Eiffel Tower from the Louvre:]

[The base of the Champs Elysees:]

[The Army Museum:]

[The best crepes in Paris- with Miss Boulangerie:]